In Search of Lingyin Temple
Every New Year’s Day, I always visit a temple in Hangzhou to experience peace and freshness. However, I don’t enjoy the bustling crowds, so I always choose smaller temples that aren’t too popular. The first temple I often visited was the Jing Mountain Temple, whose serene atmosphere once captivated my heart. I visited there on New Year’s Day in 2021, 2022, and 2023. But with the expansion of Jing Mountain Temple and its growing fame, plus the increasingly rugged mountain paths, it no longer suits a soul seeking tranquility. The temples in the city center are even more overcrowded, making it difficult to find a quiet spot, so I take a different approach: arriving early in the morning to avoid peak crowds. Generally, temples open at six o’clock in the morning, which is the perfect time.
On a clear January morning, by six o’clock, the sky in Hangzhou begins to show a faint light. That day, the air was filled with a light mist, the sky was still dark, and there were no cars on the road, only a few early risers from Meijiawu village picking fresh vegetables at roadside stalls. At 6:30, I set off from Meiling North Road, drove for two kilometers along mountain roads, and reached the parking lot at Feilai Peak. The security guards and vendors were already busy, but the ticket office for the scenic area wouldn’t open until 7:30. Standing at the entrance, there were already a dozen young people waiting in line.
For out-of-town tourists, there is an annual pass available for Hangzhou parks and temples, which is very affordable—only 40 yuan per year, and half-price for purchases made after October. This pass allows free access to parks and temples around West Lake, offering excellent value for money. It can be used at places like Faxi Temple ↗ and Jing Mountain Temple.
After passing through the commercial street of Yinshi, I headed toward the entrance to Feilai Peak Scenic Area. The Lingyin Temple lies in the heart of Feilai Peak. What makes this temple different from others is that it not only boasts a rich historical heritage but also has a unique natural landscape. The stone cave sculptures at Feilai Peak ↗ are a rare artistic treasure in the southeastern region, worthy of a prolonged gaze. In the early morning, before the sky brightens completely, the statues on Feilai Peak can be faintly seen, creating a mystical and solemn atmosphere. After walking just two more minutes, I arrived at the gate of Lingyin Temple. While the layout of the temple is similar to others, each temple has its own cultural vibe. The statues in Jing Mountain Temple are simple, those in Faxi Temple are gentle, and the statues in Lingyin Temple appear especially majestic, commanding respect.
The management of Lingyin Temple is highly organized, and every detail demonstrates excellence. Each signboard clearly states the weekday, yet in a Buddhist sanctuary, it seems somewhat inappropriate to use the Gregorian calendar. Perhaps it would be more fitting to use the Buddhist calendar.
As the temple gradually becomes more tourist-oriented, Lingyin Temple has also opened its own exhibition hall, where many fine works of art and pieces by famous modern and contemporary cultural figures associated with the temple are displayed. The temple has long been a pilgrimage site for scholars and poets. Every year during the La Ba Festival, Lingyin Temple offers rice porridge to the public, and the La Ba rice porridge has become a unique intangible cultural heritage of Hangzhou. Every year during the Spring Festival, Lingyin Temple also gives away 300,000 pairs of Spring Festival couplets to the public. Many people consider receiving Lingyin Temple’s couplets a good omen for the new year.
Lingyin Temple also has a unique Hall of Arhats. While most other temples have 18 or 32 Arhats in their halls, Lingyin Temple features 500 bronze seated statues, each with different facial features and ritual objects, as if each Arhat has its own story. If you’re interested, perhaps you can find an Arhat that resembles you.
Inside the temple, there is also an inconspicuous little stone pagoda, which is a national key cultural relic and carries the marks of Lingyin Temple’s thousand-year history. According to historical records, the temple can be traced back to 987, when the Indian monk Hui Li arrived and saw that the mountain peak resembled the sacred Lingjiu Peak in India. He named it Feilai Peak, built a hermitage, and eventually constructed Lingyin Temple. Over the centuries, the temple has survived wars and disasters, especially during the Cultural Revolution, when it was preserved thanks to Premier Zhou Enlai’s directive and the tireless efforts of Zhejiang University’s faculty and students.
Among the many historical figures connected with Lingyin Temple, Emperor Kangxi is undoubtedly the most fascinating. Though he was an emperor, he personally renamed the temple to “Yunlin Zen Temple.” However, this name change was not accepted by the faithful, and the temple is still referred to as Lingyin Temple. The plaque with the name “Yunlin Zen Temple” still hangs at the second gate of Lingyin Temple. Another important figure closely linked to the temple is Ji Gong, who meditated at Lingyin Temple for many years. After his death, he was revered as the Dragon-subduing Arhat, and his bronze statue stands alongside the other Arhats in the Hall of Arhats. Perhaps Ji Gong’s story will help you develop a more open and relaxed mindset.
Lingyin Temple, an ancient temple with a history spanning a thousand years, not only carries a deep Buddhist culture but also contains countless legends about history and human relationships. It is a gem of Hangzhou and a spiritual home for many people.
